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Traditionally, if you were looking for good beer in Italy, there was only one thing you could drink: wine. The country is dominated by two huge bland lager brands, Peroni and Moretti, and even its dark rossa beers offer little excitement.
In the last decade, however, there has been a huge change. Craft beer has taken off in a big way. Italy now has 360 microbreweries and, from nothing, real beer has come to account for 2% of total Italian beer sales.
Particularly up north, it is now relatively easy to find good beer. Visiting Genoa in September, I arrived to find the Super Birra festival taking place on the waterfront. In Venice, Milan and around Lake Como, a minority of the better bars and wine shops now carry interesting local creations, while hardcore hop-heads can hunt out brewpubs such as Milan's Birrificio Lambrate and the Eataly food stores, which serve beers from Italy's foremost craft breweries including Le Baladin and Birra del Borgo. Likewise, Rome now has several first-rate beer bars and bottle shops.